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Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.